Create a composite image in Photoshop

Creating a composite image in Photoshop using different exposures and different white balances in your images.

The concept for this creative shoot was thought out the night before I shot it. As I tried to fall asleep on a couch, with three miniature schnauzers, I thought my way through a challenging and creative image. All that I knew for sure was the fact that I was creating a warm “Christmas card” sort of image with a Christmas tree for most of the background, and the main focus being a young child.

I quickly thought about incorporating a star filter to the Christmas lights in order to create a warm holiday feeling. However, I did not want the star filter to add any distractions or effect to the rest of the image. I also wanted the beautiful decorations on the tree to be sharp and well exposed. Lastly, I needed the child to be well light and full of detail.

I then realized that I would need to take several different exposures, using different white balances throughout, and one exposure would be through a star filter. The lights on the tree would need an “incandescent” white balance (in camera), the rest would get a “flash” W.B. Setting. This is because I would be lighting both the tree's decorations and the child with two Nikon SB28's through umbrellas.

Just as I was about to drift off to sleep I realized that each image would need to be taken from the exact same angle and height. If the camera moved as I shot the images would not line up as I later edited through them. The star filtered image would need a longer exposure too, so a tripod would be employed for the session. I would need to “frame in” the image first, and then not move the camera at all as I took each image.

I also used a Nikon MC-30 remote shutter release just to make sure that the camera would not move at all.

Then I was ready to start taking pictures! First, I shot the Christmas lights-only, with the star filter, set at half a second at F/4, an ISO of 200, and W.B. set to “incandescent”. I turned off all of the other lights throughout the house, and then took the long exposure of just the Christmas tree lights. I didn't care if anything else was properly exposed in this image, since all I would be keeping is the star effect near each light.

Long exposure, exposed for the lights using a star effect filter.

The second image that I took was of the tree itself, with all of the great decorations. I set up two Nikon SB28's, each diffused with white umbrellas, and each one at about a 45 degree angle from the center of the tree that was facing the camera. I turned off the Christmas tree lights and then took the shot. I shot with the white balance set on “flash”, and at1/60th at F/5 with the ISO set at 200.

This image is exposed for the decorations only.

Next up came the images of the child in her red Christmas dress. I could take as many shots as I wanted, of the child, all with different poses, as long as the camera perspective did not move. I can't stress this point enough, and I will hit on this point at least one more time as I walk you through the editing.

This image was exposed for the Child only, with two flashes.

Again, I used the two Nikon SB28's with umbrellas in order to light the baby. I used flash because I knew that she would not stay still at all. Again, the W.B. was set to “Flash”, and I shot at 1/60th at F/5, with the ISO set at 200. I did not care if anything else exposed, because all that I wanted was the girl exposed.

Once the images were taken it was time to edit them in Photoshop.

First of all I would like to take a second and explain one point. Each image was taken with its own correct white balance which was set “in camera”. However, since I would be comping several different images (of different white balances) into one final image, I will be adjusting each of these images white balance once more in Photoshop using the threshold feature. This is to make certain that the three images match up perfectly in color and then combine to form one great looking composite image.

The first image that I opened was the image that I took of the tree and its decorations. This will become my background image that I will drag and drop other images into. I then doubled the background layer, did a white balance correction using threshold and curves, and that was about it. I like to use the threshold function in order to find the true white and true black in an image, and then I use the dropper tool (in curves) to set them as such. Since this step is done with each image, I will only type “threshold adjustment” from here on out.

Next, I opened the image of the lights through the star filter. I went through the threshold procedure, and then it was time to layer it on the first image. I need these two images to lay exactly on top of each other, so I held down the shift key as I dragged the star filter image onto the background tree image. A new layer opens automatically, with the star filter image on it.

With the new layer active, I created a layer mask and “painted out” everything except the lighting effect over the tree. Layer masks work with painting black and white colors. White “paints in” on the image, and black removes, or “paints out” on the image. Setting the brush and opacity determines how much is removed or placed back; on a layer mask.

I decided to set the layer blend mode of the layer mask layer to lighten in order to allow only the lighter parts to remain on top, and to allow the darker parts of the background image to show through. I also lowered the opacity of the layer mask layer just a little in order to make the effect a little more believable.

Back Ground image after two tree images get merged togather.

Now, if it looks great, flatten the image and save it. Now you can open this image each time, and then do the same thing with each child pose image. Let me explain what I mean.......

In my mind I hoped to get the tree image and star lights image combined, save it, and then simply add each of the different child poses onto this combined, flattened image. I took a lot of child poses, so I shad a lot of work to do.

Painting with layer masks is the fastest way that I know to do this. Forget a natural cut and paste. Cutting around hair is almost impossible to do, and it just looks like a cut and paste job. Besides, what is easier than painting?

Each time I open up and start to edit a new Christmas card image, I first open up the custom background image. Then I open the “pose image” that I will drag and drop onto the custom background. I perform the threshold white balance task on the “pose image” and then drag and drop the “pose image” (holding down the shift tab) into the custom background image. Once more, it will automatically create a new layer for the dropped layer, and this will be made into a layer mask.

“Paint out” all of the image, except for the child, on the new layer mask layer. As for a tip, you can make the layer mask only visible by turning off the background layer. This will show you any of the image that you might have missed. The reverse will show what is behind the pose layer in order to determine what should show through, and what should not.

Layer mask, with the child layer only active.

All that is left is for you to flatten and then save your new composite image. It is just this easy!

Final Composite image, made from three exposures for lighting.

Playing with the different layer blending types, as you experiment with your own composite images, will prove to be a ton of fun. Don't be scared to try new things as you work, as that is how we all learn!

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Designing your own business cards using Photoshop.

A while ago I made up some business cards for a client, using their images from a recent photo shoot. They were so popular with their clients that the cards quickly ran out! Perhaps the best part is that I placed some of my images on the reverse side of these cards, along with my information. Now every client (of my client) has this vital information at hand.

Cool idea, but does this work? Yes it does! People hang on to these cards like portraits! I have already made some new business just from this very idea. I like to make business cards up for my photography clients at no cost to them, and slip them into their order. They are a hit! If the client does not own a business then all I put on them are their names, numbers, and of course their images.

However, what I wish to share today is not on the marketing side of things. Instead, I want to detail how to quickly and easily make business cards up for yourself, and for your clients.

Photoshop is the best, and the fastest way to design these cards that I know of.


I start the process by first opening up all of the images that you wish to appear on your new card. After that, I create a new image with photoshop. I create a default Photoshop image with an 8 by 11 sized border for this step.

Decide what color you want the card to be. Make a copy of the background (the white) layer and then use the paint bucket tool to fill in your color of choice onto the new layer. I like to lower the painted layers opacity in order to get a pastel looking color. When these steps are done, flatten the image.

Next, I like to use portions of many other images, all of which in circles, on the business card. You can use squares or even the entire images, but for this I will show circles.

I perform the next part of the process by selecting a new layer in the card image. As you follow along, do not copy the background layer, but instead click on the new blank layer icon in the layer pallet well.

Next, select one of your images, and select the elliptical marquee tool. Holding down the shift button while drawing your circle will keep the selection proportional. Once you have the selection made, under the “edit” tab select “copy”.

Reverting back to the card image, highlight the new layer by clicking on it, and then look under the “select” tab, and choose “all” or “select all” to select the entire layer.

Next, look under the “edit” tab again and select “paste into”. The circle selection will be very large, but that is O.K. Look under the “edit” tab once more, under “transform”, and select “scale”. Once again, hold down the shift button and place the mouse on the upper right hand side selection. Move it to crop down to a smaller size by holding the shift key down the entire time. It may take several “bites” of the mouse to get the circle as small as you need it to be, but it will eventually happen. Holding down the shift key will keep it proportional in both height and width.

Now, click the “enter” button in order to make the selection box from your scale re-sizing go away. Select the “move” tool and place the circle into a corner in the card image.

You now can start this procedure all over again, for the next circle, by creating yet another new layer. Repeat these steps over and over until you have each circled selection on a separate layer, and there are no more circle selections of other images to add into your card image.

At this stage we will be adding the strokes, or the outlines of the circled selections, around the circles. This is a fairly easy thing to do as I will give you some of the shortcuts that I have picked up over time.

For the first stroke, lets select the very top layer in our card image. By holding down the “control” key and clicking on the tiny layer image (in the layers pallet well), the circle selection for that layer will become selected in the card image itself.

Now, lets make a stroke for it while it is selected. Look under the “edit” tab, and select “stroke”. Decide on a color for your stroke, and a size. You can always go back and re-try different sizes by clicking on the “undo” tab. Once you like the color and the size, play with the selection type, which is either inside stroke, outside stroke, or center stroke. Each acts a little different, so decide which you like the best, and then click “O.K”. Repeat this process for each layer, or each circle selection in the card image layer pallet well.

After completing these easy steps, and you like what you see, you can arrange the circles in size and in relationship to one another by selecting the move tool, and selecting the correct layer. Look under the “edit” tab, under “transform”, and choose “scale”. Again, to make the circles larger or smaller use the shift key as you re-size them to keep the from distorting.

You can place each circle either on top of, or underneath of the centered selected circle by selecting that layer, and moving it up or down in the layer pallet well. Have fun and try all sorts of positions in order to find what looks right to you. Here are two images that detail this better.

After you have the selections just right, the strokes added, and the layers just right in order, you can start merging the layers. Do not flatten the image yet, but instead merge the layers one at a time. To do this easily, click on the top most layer, and then depress “control” button on the keyboard followed by the “E” button. Photoshop may warn you about loosing the layer mask, in a pop up window, and if it does, click “O.K.”. The layer that you selected has been merged to the layer just below it.

Repeat this step until you have only two layers left. These two layers should be the background layer and a layer with only the “stroked” circles on it.

I had you stop merging once you got down to having two layers so that you could now perform a last and final re-size. This is just a lot easier to do now that all of the circles are just where you want them, and they all are on just one layer.

If you wish to perform a re-size now, start out by selecting the layer with the circles on it, and thus highlighting it. Look under “edit” tab, and then look under “transform”, and then select “scale”. Remember to hold down the “shift” key as you perform the re-sizing! Perform the last re-size job, and then hit your enter button.

I went on and added another new layer for my text. Choose a color for your text that works, like the same color that you chose for your strokes. You can find the size that looks best, but keep in mind that it will be on a small business card. I write this because I made this very mistake once. The type and the font looked fine as I made the card, but when they arrived in the mail the font was very hard to read.

Refer back through my posts to read some great self promoting ideas. I have listed some in the past, and of all the things that I have done, everyone loves this idea! Getting a business card for free, with your own images on them is just fun and cool. People love to give them out to others, and I am finding that folks tend to hang on to them. They are little pictures of loved ones after all, and they will last a long, long time in your clients hands.

Thanks for coming over to the “All Things About Photography” blog. I hope that if you are a reader you would choose to subscribe so that you never miss out. Thank you very much if you have already subscribed, and what are you waiting for? -if you have not. Feel free to put up any comments that you might have, so that others may read your great ideas! Thanks once again!!!

Recent photo shoot, and a hard lighting lesson learned.

A big thank you goes out to a big family. I was recently asked to photograph these four generational images that you can see in this post. What an opportunity! For the first set of images I gathered the entire group into a local cemetery, and then I got to work. I liked this little bridge with the little white rails, and I was pleased to see it covered with all of the fallen leaves. This would become location number one.

I stood on the back of a pick up truck in order to get as high as I could. I did this on account of the sheer number of participants involved, and also because of how many rows of people I would soon have. My sister grouped the folks together and I made sure that I could see them all through the lens. After that, I made sure that the strobes could in fact light them all, and then I fired away.

I set up three separate strobe units, all of which were Nikon SB28's with pocket wizards as remote triggers. These two pieces of gear seem to work flawless, time after time.

I mentioned at the beginning that I learned a lesson, and here it is.

I knew that if I shot this crowd with a bare bulb set up then the resulting shadows would be intense and hard. I set up two Nikon SB28 strobes, high on stands, and at a 45 degree angle towards each other, and I put on some barn doors just to control any unwanted light spillage. My mistake was that I assumed that by simply adding a third strobe (also with a bare bulb, and centered between the two other lights) that third strobe would help eliminate any over intense shadowing.

What happened was that I got three sets of hard and rather bold shadows! I had umbrellas with me, at the shoot, and I should have used them as diffusion material. Well, I knew as I set up that this might be a problem and thought that I had it covered with the third strobe unit. I was so wrong. Next time, I will add some diffusion!

Without knowing how hard the shadows actually were, I packed everyone up and set out for the second location. By packing up and heading out, I lost the chance to re-shoot the images using some diffusion. I spent hours softening up shadows, and/or removing shadows completely. Do not leave a shoot with out viewing your images at full size. Now I know this.

The second location that we shot at was just down the road at a local middle school. The trees were in full fall color, and all sorts of hardwoods were available for placing the family in front of and/or beside. For this part of the day, I simply bounced the warm afternoon sun right at the clients with a California Sun Bounce.

The California Sun Bounce that I used was a large unit, perhaps four or five feet long, and it lit the entire crowd. My sister worked her magic with the California Sun Bounce as I shot away. The shadows were not as hard nor as intense this time, and the only problem with this series was a white balance issue.

I knew that the white balance would not be perfect because the sun was coming in through the trees, and all of the fall leaves. They had a yellowish tint to them, and the leaves overhead acted like a yellow diffusion sun tent. The clients looked like they had just fallen into a load of cheesy doodles.

As for editing this series of images, I did something a little bit differently. With a fast white balance adjustment in Lightroom, I was fairly accurate. The white balance look was not where I wanted it though, as I stated they were all sort of yellowish and cheesy looking, even after a correct white balance adjustment. So, I added a blue cooling photo filter in Photoshop CS3 and then “WHAMMO”, it was a done deal!

The opposite end of the warmish yellow/orange color spectrum is blue, so I just gave using the filter a shot. I put the blue cooling filter on to a new layer and set it at about 70 percent opacity before flattening the final image.

Reviewing the Honl Photo 1/8th inch speed grid.

Just the other day I received the Honl Photo 1/8th inch speed grid in the mail, and just in time to try it out in a photo shoot.

First, let me explain why I like Honl Photo “speed system” products so much.

I like to light my images with Nikon speed lights. I have gotten rid of my large and bulky pro photo strobe units, and have replaced them with many tiny Nikon flashes. I am so much happier for doing it. To me they are less weight and less hassle. As a creative photographer I try to use my speed lights in as many different and creative ways as I can. Weather for highlights, main lights, or as spots, my speed lights get employed, and get the job done.

Shooting with these smaller speed lights, placed all around a photo session has been a blast for me. I have gotten fairly good at deciding just what sort of light I am looking for, and just which light modifier to use in order to obtain this "minds eye lighting".

I have spent countless hours crafting snoots, grids, and many other light mod's. I guess those college level art classes were not such a waste of time after all. Well, Honl Photo has made these same attachments, but in a much easier to use design. Welcome the Honl Photo speed ring system!

Honl Photo has become a common name in the pro level light mod business. They are making quite a few great products these days, and I have had the good fortune to try out yet another one of them. I have written about the Honl Photo color filter gel effects kit recently in THIS POST. The bottom line is that the Honl Photo speed system attachments make snooting, gridding, and white balance color adjustments a snap. I love the speed in which one can actually attach, and then try out one of their light mods fast. Heck, if it isn't what you wanted, then they detach, and just as fast.

The Honl Photo speed system light mods work in tandem with the Honl Photo Velcro and rubber speed strap. Honl Photo products are super fast to attach and detach for this very reason. This supplied Velcro speed strap temporarily wraps around your speed light, and then the Honl Photo system that you are using attaches to the Velcro speed strap. Fast and easy!

I decided to try out the new Honl Photo 1/8th inch speed grid to illuminate a small portion of a scene. The scene is a little girl surrounded by a fall-like scene. I used the Honl Photo 1/8th inch grid along with Honls' yellow colored filtered gel from the Honl Photo color effects kit. I employed the Honl Photo 1/8 th grid so that no spillage from the yellow gelled light would leak over and into the rest of the image. Point is that it worked awesome.

The system is fast, and as easy as aiming the light at the subject. A series of test images will get you just where you wish to be.

The above photo is what I had in mind for the final image. The photo posted below is only what the Honl Photo 1/8th grid and yellow gel from the Honl Photo color gel filter kit accomplished for me. As you can see the flash with the Honl Photo grid covered a relatively small, confined area without leaking yellow to the rest of the image. The flash was on a stand, almost exactly four feet away from the tub. I shot the images at ISO 100, at 5.6.

Lastly, there are some quick videos that I recommend that you watch. Follow over to

the Honl main page and please check them out.

Thanks for returning, time and time again, to the All things about photography blog. I aim to show recent work and tie in news, products, and reviews as I do so. Feel free to comment on any post, and as always subscribing now ensures that you will never miss a post!

Pocket Wizards for less.

Do we ever really have enough gear in our photography bags?

I have been diagnosed as having G.A.S. For those of you not quite sure what G.A.S. is, it stands for Gear Acquisitioning Syndrome. Lucky for me, and fellow G.A.S. sufferers, it is not fatal. However, while in the (expensive) throws of this terrible disease my behavior can often times resemble that of someone that enjoys partying all night long. I wake up the next day feeling bad about what I have done.

I have learned to recognize the oncoming symptoms of a G.A.S. attack, and can often times think my way through an all out spending spree. However one item has been in my sights for a long time.

I have tossed around the notion of purchasing several Pocket Wizards, as I use four (or more) flashes as I photograph clients. I have been (up to now) using either been my Cactus wireless triggers or borrowing my Brother-in-laws Pocket Wizards (thanks Scott). The Cactus wireless triggers are not very reliable, and mine continue to work only when they want to. Pocket Wizards, as we all know, work every time, and will cover distances father than we could ever encounter as portrait or wedding photographers.

The only issue that kept me from purchasing Pocket Wizards is the cost. Yes, these things are incredible, but $180.00 each feels like way too much money. I needed to find a way around this hurdle. I want the Pocket Wizards all right, but with a reasonable price tag.

I believe that Pocket Wizards are the best remote wireless flash triggers out there. That is just the way it is. I was set on the brand name, but not the “brand”. The newest type of P.W.’s is called a “transceiver” A transceiver is both a receiver and a transmitter, depending on how you set up the unit. This makes ordering, using, and having extra units as a backup all really easy. I get the idea behind the new “transceiver” idea. But is it worth paying extra for this option? I do not think so. Plus, I don’t need brand new P.W.’s, just ones that work.

Ebay was the first place that I went to in this cheapo search of mine. I found that you can get the new ones, for an arm and a leg, from practically everyone that is on Ebay. Let’s face it, these items are hot! However, with much “shagrin” I was happy to find an Ebayer that carries just what I was looking for! There is a person that finds the older style of P.W.’s (that are either transmitter or receivers) and sells them for way under $100.00 each, or for a single unit. They are used, but they are also in awesome condition! My order of P.W.’s (a transmitter and two receivers) all work perfectly, and are not damaged in any way. Good quality at a great price!

This seller will also inform you of when new shipments are coming in, so if you miss out, you can get put onto a waiting list of sorts. My transaction was smooth and fast. Whoops, I forgot to mention the best part of the whole deal……. the free shipping!

If you have been waiting to enter the wireless, off camera flash era due to the high cost of the needed gear, than now is the time to buy! Get that flash off your camera and get creative! Get your Pocket Wizards today!

Owen and Ariana

Here are a couple of images from my most recent photo shoot. I had the pleasure of photographing these young cousins while at a popular beach spot.

The day could not have gone any better, with great weather and even a mother for a helper. I was also reminded all about the power of patience. Often times I deal with children, as well as pets, so patience is a virtue.

A fun “twist” to my afternoon!

I found myself driving right past these “hip hop street dancers” many times, and each time saying to myself “I should get some shots of these hip youngsters”. But the excuses that kept me from stopping were great in number. Well, here is Break Heads Crew, a dance club.

Well, I finally stopped the car, got out, and asked them what they thought about a photographer popping off some action shots of them, and here is what I came away with.


The real fun came from just watching the youngest two dancers, as they were so eager to perform for the camera.

These two wanted assurance that their images were “in camera” before I was even permitted to leave! How cute!

I must add that all of these guys are rather good at what they do, and they all have the right attitude. They stay out all afternoon and dance the long summer hours away, and doing so; remain out of any trouble. Kudos!

If you are a local here in Southern Maine, and would like some dance lessons, or maybe some more information about hiring the Break Heads Crew, see David Davis at his myspace, at http://www.myspace.com/breakheadscrew or email at BHC@yahoo.com.

To be honest, a great time was had and I think that some very fun shots were captured! These folks are doing the right thing.